Ernesto Reyes S

Hello everyone, I know this work bench will start tomorrow but I have to go to visit doctors tomorrow and I suppose will take almost all day sorry for that

First of all thanks all of you to participate in this online work bench, and thanks to all friendly forum to let me post a publication of this work bench

Also thanks to Jesus Martin and NOCTURNA for sent me this great figure

Ok, now starting the engies...

MATERIALS

To begin the clean process of the resin I use some materials that help me a lot, just a Xacto knife (new) a rotary tool kit, sand paper, some putty mixing with liquid glue (Tamiya) to cover small holes in the resin and finally a primer from Tamiya to prime the whole figure



PREPARATION

The first thing that I do is to remove all the resin excess, for that I use the rotary tool with this specific tool



In these pictures you can see the excess of resin





And here the result after using the rotary tool



After that I used sand paper to get a more uniform texture...

Next is to remove the resin excess over the hair, for that I used once again the rotary tool but with this particular tool



This tool works great and very acurate to remove the resin

In this picture you can see all the resin excees over the hair



And here the result after using the rotary tool





Now it is time to use some Magic Sculpt to remold the hair, I will need a rubber brush also a singular brush and Xacto knife to sculpt the new added hair...

Now I start to put the magic sculpt aplication hlep me with the rubber brush and a bit of water to attached very well de magic sculpt...



When the magic sculpt is almost dry I strat to sculpt the hair details with a Xacto knife and the rubber brush for the final details.

Here the result



Now is time to attach the rest of hair behind the figure, also I had to clean very well the resin excess



After that i used once again the magic sculpt to sculpt some new hair, specially in the union areas

Here the result..

ASSEMBLY

Now is time to asembly the figure to the wood base, first I drill a hole in the bottom of the figure uisng a Dremel tool





And this is the wood base that I used for this particular size bust, is coming from Pegaso Models catalog number WBP-Q01 works great for this figure



I use the drill to do a hole also in the wood base, the hole is not perfectly simetric but doesn't matter, after attach the pedestal I will use a rounded metal object to cover the hole <---sorry but I don't know the english name for that object



For the pedestal I use this metal little tube, aluminum I guess works great to cut easily with a Xacto knife



To attach the pedestal in the wood base I use epoxy glue



Mixing the components with a toothpick



And here the result

Now is time to use some putty mixing with liquid glue from Tamiya to fill any little holes or little imperfections on the resin model...





After that a primer from Tamiya (light grey color) apply the spray about 15cm of distance moving the can from left to right during all process

The eyes

Now is time to paint the eyes, for that I starting to paint tha eye ball with a base mix color of WWII Camo German Beige, Old Rose an Black, lights with deck tan and off white.

After that I paint an outline around the eye with a mix of black and cadmium maroon but enlighting the lower part with old rose and magenta.



In my case I painta kind of "frame" around the eyes to give a melancolic look, of course this will be cover with the basic skin color but not will be cover at 100%



Noi is time to paint the iris, the fun part for that I use a black color, painting 2 rounded dots, in this case follow the look to the left to avoid any cross eyed



Mel Gibson has a deep blue eyes, for thet I mix a base color of turquoise and black, light with andrea blue and the highlights with white



At last to paint the pupils, trying to paint it at the center of the iris and finally the white highlights



Here the mix tablet with all Vallejo colors



And the result

THE SKIN

Now is time to paint the skin, first of all I paint a kind of black frame around the corners of the face and the locations of deeper shadows. I use a mix of black and cadmio maroon...



Here a picture of the face with the black frame, this black frame will help me when I have to paint deeper shadows and the is difficult to get to those areas with the brush



When is dry I do a base skin color, in my case a redwish tone, I use the follow colors...





I mix all my color with X-21 Flat Base from Tamiya, this help me to give a flat look to the texture, I know I can avoid to use the flat base for the skin but I paint to much with a very fluid color and when you work with the color mix to fluid is tending to satin, so, I use the flat base for every mixing color. Just adding water and the right amount of flat base.

The base color of the skin, first the mix no too much fluid (not too much water) and for the second and third layer more water...



For paint the base skin color I use a number 2 brush from Winsor & Newton serie 7



Here a picture of the base color with the second layer

In this particular case I paint first the deeper shadows, after that I cover the deeper shadows with a lighter shadows, but I don't cover it 100% I use transparency to get the right look of tone color. Don't worry if this deep shadows looks irregular, when I paint the lighter shadows I use more water to blend the colors

I use a mix of cadmio maroon, violet red and a bit of black

Now is time to paint the lights, I use the following colors...





In this picture you can see the firs layer of light...



Now the second layer of light, just adding some basic skin tone to the mix



Not too much contrast yet...



Now a third light with a mix of sand brown and basic skin tone, and finally a highlight with only basic skin tone



Now show more contrast...

Now the shadows, as I did before I paint first the deeper shadow and then I will cover it with lighter shadows, always trying to do transparency in each layer...

I use the following colors...









Starting to cover the deeper shadow with transparency layer of a lighter shadow



More lighter shadow and also a bit of base color to blend very well all the mixing tones



I do the same technique for lights, blanding each lights until looks good, is normal to rework again the lights and also the shadows to give a real good contrast but with a good transition of colors and tones



Here the result, not complety finsh but you can see all the transitions and blending







Any question or comment feel free to do it

did you put any semigloss or anything else on the eyes?

Thanks,

Kevin D.

Kevin D. wrote:

did you put any semigloss or anything else on the eyes?

Thanks,

Kevin D.

No Kevin, just a pure acrylics without flat base

THE HAIR

For the hair I first paint a dark base color





Then I started to paint the lights,remember the zenith light...













And finally a lot of washes of differents tones





And the result

Ernesto, I couldn't help but join in..........
I have said it elsewhere and I say it here........your work is inspirational and really hope that I get to see it "in the flesh" at least once in this life!! Bravo!!!!

Your photography is also top notch and on my Falkar thread (planetfigure, Timelines and everywhere) I mentioned that I followed your lighting rig on the Roaming Knight thread.........
However I returned to the CRAPPY PICS with my Hospitaller face

Keep safe.........

Ray

Interesting to see how you paint. Thanks for sharing your work and secrets! ;-)

I also used to prime in white or gray primer and then started by painting all the hard edges and deep areas black. I've since switched to flat black primer which takes this task away. I don't know that the black primer has much effect on the final look compared to white primer, but I find it easier. I got this idea from Calvin Tan.

Good painting!

Matt

Hello guys and thanks for your comments I'm glad you enjoy this sbs.
Ray thanks my friend I also wish to travel some day to a Big expo in Europe, but every day is harder I saw your works on The Periscopio Publication book and looks very cool

Matt thank you, I took the black primer idea from Pepe Gallardo, it is not complety black only the hard edges, I never use the complete black primer yet, but maybe for an smaller figure

LEATHER PARTS

Now is time to paint the leather parts, in order to do that I first Paint a very dark base color, almost black, after that is a lot of texture work.
Here you can see all the colors I used



And for the metal parts



And here the result, you can see all the "veladuras" and texture work, not too much bleending in this case, lot of colors and tones

THE TARTAN

For the tartan first I paint a dark base color and over this dark color I paint a light green color



In this picture you can see the light green color, almost like an olive green



Next mixtures are for the other strips colors, dark green and red brown





And starting the strips...









After that some washes of a dark green mixture to blend all the colors..





After that I satrt to paint the vertical thin lines, then more washes and finally lights and shadows for every color